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Yes. The card goes into the PC you play on, and a second machine reads it and runs the software. That's the whole point, so one computer can't do both.

The second one doesn't need to be powerful. A cheap used mini PC, an old office desktop or a laptop you stopped using is fine, as long as it has 4 cores or more, 8GB of memory and a USB 3 port. For MiTM it can't be a laptop. Your Second Computer lists good cheap ones.

If you have a desktop with a free PCIe slot and room around it, almost certainly. Slot length doesn't matter, the shortest one on the board is enough.

We wouldn't go older than a board from 2020, and on AMD even B550 itself can be hit and miss. Your Main PC walks through checking yours in about five minutes. Best motherboards for DMA, and the ones that give trouble goes through them on AMD and Intel.

It arrives with factory firmware on it, which isn't the firmware you'll run. Firmware is a separate purchase, and you flash it yourself from your second computer.

It takes about 10 minutes including setup, and the flash itself takes about a minute. Flashing your firmware walks you through it.

Stay in the BIOS on the main PC while you read the DNA ID or flash. The card just needs power, so leave the main PC sitting in the BIOS. Never boot into Windows on the main PC with a card that isn't flashed with our firmware yet. If you already did, reinstall Windows on the main PC before launching any games.

No. It is a card in a slot and a cable out of the back of the case. If you have ever put a graphics card in, this is easier.

Our boxes come with everything you need.

We ship anywhere, free and tracked. Parcels ship in 1–2 days, not counting Sundays, then take 7 to 10 working days, or 3 to 5 with $30 express, for delivery. Customs and import fees are down to your own country, so if they are charged, they are yours to pay. If customs sends a parcel back, we reship it by express at no cost.

The full details are in our shipping, warranty and refund policies.

Once you've ordered, open a ticket in our Discord, and before that ask on the support forum, where real people answer.

The guides in Learn cover the setup end to end, and if something in them is wrong or missing there is a box at the bottom of every one to tell us.

Crypto at checkout, through NOWPayments. You can pay with most major coins, and the payment page shows every one that is supported.

Card works too, through Stripe in a ticket in our Discord. It's only for orders under $400, and it's 10% on top of the price. Crypto has no extra fee.

Checkout is crypto because the items we sell are high in value, and card payments in our market come with very high chargeback rates. The 10% on card covers that risk and the card fees. Why we use crypto explains it in full, including how to buy and send crypto safely if you never have. How to pay with crypto shows the payment page step by step.

Start with the anti-cheat your game uses, because every build is made for certain ones and a pricier build doesn't always cover more. For Fortnite and other EAC games, Premium T2 is what we point most people to, and T3 if you want the fewest people on your device and three months of warranty. For VALORANT you need a Vanguard build, so Private or MiTM on an Intel 11th gen or newer, or AMD VGK or RDMA on AMD.

Which DMA firmware should you buy? compares every build, and Which anti-cheat does my game use? lists the games. If you're still not sure, open a ticket in our Discord with your game and your CPU.

Check the status page, it shows how every device is doing right now. If we confirm and announce that your device is blocked or detected, everyone on it is told on the site and by email, and news like ban waves goes in Updates on the forum too. MiTM is never announced there, since every MiTM user has their own device, so we confirm it with you in your ticket instead.

Device detected or blocked? explains what each status means.

Not always. A lot of bans come from reports, your stats and how you play, and that kind of ban is just between you and the game, you appeal it or play on a new account (you will need to spoof first to get back on). A hardware ban is different: it sits on your PC's own hardware, like your drives and motherboard, not on the DMA card, so a DMA card does not get you past it by itself. We can clear a hardware ban with a Manual Spoof through a ticket. A hardware ban can also catch your firmware's serials, and if that happened you will want a rebuild for a fresh serial, which is free in warranty.

If you think the card is why you got banned, or it was a hardware ban, open a ticket in our Discord with the game, what happened and when. If you get banned has the rest.

Yes, every time your main PC restarts. Run it on your second computer once the main PC is back on, before you start your software. If you skip it, the firmware stays on the card and your PC works like normal, the card just can't read memory until you activate it. A TINY PCIe TLP message in your software usually means you forgot.

Your key lasts 90 days, and we reset the same key for free if you ask in your ticket before it runs out. Your activation key covers the first time you activate.

Start with a cold boot, so shut the main PC down, unplug it at the back, hold the power button for 15 seconds and start it again. Then make sure the cable from the box goes into the card's data port and into a rear USB 3 port on your second PC, with no hub or extension in between. Most fails are the cable or the port.

If those are fine, look at the second PC. One stuck at 100% CPU, or with fewer than 4 cores or less than 8GB of memory, can fail even with a good cable. Low DMA speed? goes through every step, and if it still fails, open a ticket in our Discord with a screenshot of the speed test. What a healthy DMA speed test looks like in MewTools has the numbers a healthy card gets.

It means the software on your second PC couldn't start reading your main PC's memory. Cold boot the main PC, run the activator, and check the card's lights are on steady and the cable is in the data port. If you haven't yet, turn off Fast Boot in the BIOS, and try another PCIe slot or a lower slot speed.

If it still fails after all of that, your board and the build may just not get on. Open a ticket in our Discord and we work on it with you, and replace the build if we need to. VMM INIT FAILED has every step.

Turn off Fast Boot in the BIOS, since that's the one that causes trouble with every build. It's a different setting from Fast Startup in Windows. If the card is unstable or doesn't show up, look at the PCIe slot speed next, start on the fastest setting and step it down one at a time.

Every firmware works with SVM and NX turned on, but we suggest turning them off for stability unless you need them.

If a game needs Secure Boot, TPM or IOMMU on to launch, leave them on. DMA card BIOS settings shows where Fast Boot is on each brand, and Do you need to turn off Secure Boot, TPM or IOMMU? explains each one.

When we tag you in your ticket and you don't reply for a while, we close it so the queue keeps moving. Just open a new ticket in our Discord and say where you left off. Keep anything about your order in your ticket instead of the customer chat, because that's where we have your order in front of us. How support tickets work in our Discord says what to send in a new one.

No, we sell the hardware and the firmware. For software we suggest Blurred and Streck, you buy it from them directly and they do their own support. If you can't pick, grab a short key of each and try them yourself, because it comes down to your games and the features you want. Which DMA software should you get? compares them.

RDMA reads your main PC's memory over Ethernet through a signed driver, so there's no DMA card at all. It runs on AMD and Intel and covers Vanguard and EAC, which is why it's mostly for people on AMD who want to play VALORANT, or whose board doesn't work with DMA. On Intel, or if you only play EAC games, a card build or MiTM does the job just as well and it comes down to what you prefer.

RDMA has 25 slots. You buy a key on RDMA, then open a ticket in our Discord and we go through the requirements and set it up with you there.

No. RDMA runs between your two PCs on your own network, so your internet speed doesn't come into it. Both PCs go on the same router, or on one cable straight between them, which is faster. If one of them has no Ethernet port, a USB to Ethernet adapter works as long as it's at least 1 Gbps, and a 2.5 Gbps one is better.

Yes, you play at whatever refresh rate your monitor runs, so a 60Hz monitor gives you 60Hz through the fuser. You only need a new monitor if you want more than that. Video fusers lists the modes each fuser does.

Usually one of your two computers isn't sending that mode, so the fuser can't put the overlay on top. Plug the second computer straight into your monitor and check the rate is in its list, because if it isn't there, it can't send it through a fuser either. When none of the preset modes fit, press EDID on the remote and set the mode yourself on both computers.

EDID mode has the steps. If it still won't show, open a ticket in our Discord with your fuser model, your monitor and both graphics cards.

Yes, with a fuser, since its output already has the overlay on top of the game. Put a capture card between the fuser and your monitor, so the fuser's output goes into the capture card, the capture card's output goes to your monitor and its USB goes to your second PC to record. A capture card on its own only sends your main PC's picture to the second PC, without the overlay. Do I need a video fuser? explains the difference. How to record or stream with your DMA overlay showing has the wiring step by step.

No, none of our builds work on FACEIT, MiTM included, and we won't sell one until we've tested it as safe. If FACEIT is where you mostly play, don't buy DMA from us for it. CS2 on Valve's own matchmaking runs VAC, and CS2 DMA shows which builds work there.

Yes, on the builds made for Fortnite. Epic needs Secure Boot, TPM 2.0 and IOMMU on for every tournament, and none of them stop our builds, so leave all three on. We still tell people to skip Zero Build tournaments and ranked cups, and Why we say skip Zero Build tournaments has our reasons. Fortnite DMA shows which builds cover Fortnite.

Yes, as long as the chip is a 75T or a 100T. A 35T doesn't have room for any build we sell. Listings can be wrong, so check yours in MewTools with Card check and Read card before you buy firmware. Can you use our firmware on a DMA card you already own? has the rest, M.2 and Thunderbolt cards included. Fake fusers and clone DMA cards, and how to check yours has more on clone cards.

No, and it wouldn't run anyway. Every build except MiTM is made for one card's DNA ID, so it only works on the card it was made for. Our terms don't allow sharing or reselling a build either, and doing it ends your license and your warranty. Your friend needs their own build for their card, and Selling, sharing or giving it away has the details.

Yes, we do Manual Spoof as a service through a ticket in our Discord, so it isn't something you buy on the site. It clears a hardware ban, the kind that sits on your PC's own hardware, so you can get back in. Open a ticket and ask about it, and Manual Spoof has what we've written up so far.

Add what you want to your cart and press Checkout. You create an account or sign in right there on the page, then pay with crypto through NOWPayments.

Hardware orders ask for a shipping address. Firmware is delivered digitally, so it only needs your email.

Before you buy, ask on the support forum or in our Discord. After you order, open a ticket in our Discord. How support tickets work in our Discord says what to send so we can help right away.

No. It ships with factory firmware, which isn't what you run. Buy firmware, with the card or after, and flash it from your second computer, and don't boot into Windows with the card in until you have. If you get stuck, we flash it with you in a ticket.

Stay in the BIOS on the main PC while you read the DNA ID or flash. The card just needs power, so leave the main PC sitting in the BIOS. Never boot into Windows on the main PC with a card that isn't flashed with our firmware yet. If you already did, reinstall Windows on the main PC before launching any games.

No, but it needs a few things: a USB 3 port on the back, 4 cores or more, 8GB of memory and Windows 10 or 11. An old desktop or a laptop is fine, as long as it isn't the PC you play on. For MiTM it can't be a laptop. Your Second Computer lists good cheap ones.

Space on the chip. The more room there is, the more code fits, which means more advanced firmware now and a card that still keeps up later. Every build we sell needs a 75T or a 100T. The price difference is small, so the 100T is the only one we sell. Why the 100T goes into it.

It is a plain PCIe x1 card, so it fits any board with a free x1, x4, x8 or x16 slot. Your Main PC shows you how to check your slots before you buy. Already ordered and it isn't working? Open a ticket in the Discord and we sort it out with you. If the card really is faulty, the three months of warranty cover it.

With MewTools, our free flashing tool, from your second computer over the card's JTAG port. Flashing your firmware has screenshots, and if you get stuck the Mew team flashes it with you in a ticket.

Stay in the BIOS on the main PC while you read the DNA ID or flash. The card just needs power, so leave the main PC sitting in the BIOS. Never boot into Windows on the main PC with a card that isn't flashed with our firmware yet. If you already did, reinstall Windows on the main PC before launching any games.

It turns the card off, same as pulling it out of the slot, without opening the case. Never flip it while your PC is on. The kill switch post has more info.

Other people run firmware that copies the same device as yours. Your serials are still your own, and someone else's ban isn't your ban. The fewer people on a device, the fewer bans get tied to it, which is why the builds with fewer people cost more. What shared firmware means goes in depth.

Yes, in or out of warranty. Moving up a Premium tier needs a slot open in that tier. While you are in warranty, 65% of what you paid comes off the build you move to. After your warranty ends, 40% comes off instead, but only if your build was blocked or detected. Advanced to Private VGK only inside warranty: 65% of $200 is $130 off, so you pay $120. If you already know you want a higher build, just buy it now. An upgrade is a whole new build on its own device, so you can't just pay the difference between the two prices.

Advanced, Premium and Private: your build is made for one card's DNA ID, so it doesn't move to another card. If you are still in warranty, we can make a build for the new card at a small extra cost, and the old build is deleted. Ask in a ticket. Out of warranty it is a new purchase. Check the card works before you buy firmware for it.

MiTM: it isn't tied to your card's DNA ID, so a new card just means redoing the setup, about ten minutes.

Yes, as long as it is made for your game's anti-cheat. Check that first, because a more expensive build doesn't always cover more: Private VGK only costs more than Advanced but swaps EAC for Vanguard. After that, a higher tier has better emulation and more time spent on it. It costs more, so the people on it are mostly legit players who won't get the device flagged by raging. The higher you go, the more complex the device, the longer the warranty and the more priority you get on support and new devices. Premium T3 is for people who are serious about competitive play. Advanced is more than enough for most people, and as of September 2026 no device has more than 30 people on it. T1 vs T2 vs T3 helps you pick.

Yes. The card comes with factory firmware on it, which isn't what you will run. Firmware is always a separate purchase from the card when purchasing from us.

Advanced, Premium and Private: yes, it's yours. If it gets blocked in one game, it can still work in games with lighter anti-cheats.

MiTM: no. MiTM is a key, not a purchase, so it stops when the key expires. Buy another key to keep going: your slot stays yours for a week after the key ends, so you can get the funds together, but tell us in a ticket and buy the next key there.

The firmware itself is lifetime. Activation keys are set to 90 days only because of a limit on our key server, and that will get fixed eventually. The 90 days count from when we activate your key, and the activator app shows how long is left. When it gets close to running out, open a ticket and we reset the same key back to 90 days for free. When a key runs out, you can no longer unlock the card to read or write memory after you restart your main PC.

Yes, for $100 a month. Ask in a ticket in our Discord before your warranty ends, because we can't extend one after it has run out. Devices cost a lot to run, so it is usually better value to upgrade to a new build when a new device comes out, which also starts a fresh warranty. There's no lifetime warranty, since there's no fair price for keeping a device running forever.

Only on the 4K Pro, which runs 1440p at 240Hz and 4K at 120Hz. The 10th Gen boxes run 4K at 60Hz, and 1440p at 144Hz on the HDMI or up to 165Hz on the DP. Both do 240Hz at 1080p.

Your motherboard doesn't matter here, a fuser only sees two video outputs and a monitor. When it goes wrong it is almost always a mode your monitor or graphics card won't take, so try a lower mode first. If none of the fuser's modes fit your monitor or second computer, EDID mode lets you set your own. Still not working? Open a ticket in Discord with your monitor model and both graphics cards. If the unit really is faulty, the three months of warranty cover it.

No. Your monitor goes on HDMI OUT or DP OUT, never both at once. Use whichever input your monitor has free.

MAKCU: no. It is full-speed USB, so one transfer every millisecond is the most it does, whatever the firmware.

FERRUM: yes, it goes to 8000 Hz, but that only counts with an 8 kHz mouse, or if you are replacing a KMBox B+ Pro. With a 1000 Hz mouse, 8000 Hz gets you nothing extra. For everything else, we recommend MAKCU.

MAKCU: yes. makcu.com says MAKCU supports keyboards as well as mice (setup guide). It lists keyboard passthrough on v4 as coming soon, so ask in a ticket before you update.

FERRUM: yes. Plug a keyboard into the middle port and it passes through to your main PC like normal. Software on your second computer can also press, hold and let go of keys through FERRUM, the same way it moves your mouse, like tapping a reload key for you. Set the device type to Keyboard in the Ferrum Utility.

Both go on your second computer.

MAKCU: the CH343 driver. MAKCU's setup page explains it and links the download. Firmware updates go through the MAKCU Toolkit, free from makcu.com. Updating MAKCU to v4 has the steps.

FERRUM: the CP210x driver, free from Silicon Labs, and the Ferrum Utility, which comes from Ferrum. If their site is down or you can't find it, ask in a ticket in Discord and we send it over.

It should. FERRUM is KMBox B+ Pro compatible, so software written for a B+ Pro talks to it as-is. You still install the CP210x driver and the Ferrum Utility on your second computer first, then point your software at the COM port the utility reports.

Put the main PC cable in a port on the back of your motherboard first. Front and top ports can work, but they go through a cable inside the case and can cause dropouts, so use a rear port. Most mice work, wired or wireless with their own USB receiver, but not every one, and Bluetooth doesn't go through. Check the COM port number and baud rate match what your software expects. Still nothing? Open a ticket in Discord with your motherboard and mouse model. If the unit is faulty, the three months of warranty cover it.

No. FERRUM only passes through one device, and Ferrum confirmed a USB hub on that port doesn't work. Pick the mouse or the keyboard.

Advanced, the Premium tiers and MiTM run on AMD and Intel, on boards from 2020 or newer. For Vanguard, MiTM and Private's VGK only and VGK + EAC need Intel. On AMD, Vanguard runs on AMD VGK, a monthly key, and on RDMA, which needs no DMA card. If your game is on EAC, Advanced, the Premium tiers and Private VGK + EAC run on AMD.

A slot is one person on the same device, with their own serials. A T1 device takes up to fifty people, T2 twenty-five and T3 five, and each tier runs several devices at once. The higher the tier, the better the emulation, the more time goes into it and the more complex the device. T3 also gets three months of warranty instead of one. Cards, CPUs and motherboards are the same on all three. T1 vs T2 vs T3 helps you pick.

Yes. Up to fifty people are on the same device on T1, twenty-five on T2 and five on T3, each with their own serials. That is what a slot is. Each tier runs several devices at once, and we often close a device to new buyers before it's full, so most have fewer. Device rotation explains it.

Nothing. When a device fills up, or is blocked or detected, the next buyers get a new device. Yours stays exactly as it was built and you never re-flash for a rotation. If a new device was added because yours was blocked or detected: in warranty, you re-flash onto the new device. Out of warranty, you don't get the new device, you get 40% of what you paid off your next firmware.

Yes, by paying 50% of the price up front. That half isn't refunded if you change your mind, so only do it if you are sure.

Better emulation with more time spent on it, twenty-five slots instead of fifty, and a more complex device. It costs more, so the people on it are mostly legit players who won't get the device flagged by raging. Warranty, cards, CPUs and motherboards are all the same. If none of that matters to you, T1 costs less. T1 vs T2 vs T3 helps you pick.

Each tier usually has more than one device open, and new buyers go onto one of them at random. If every device at your tier is closed, you can't buy it until the next one is ready. There is no waiting list right now. T1 has the most slots of the three, and Advanced has no limit at all.

Better emulation with more time spent on it, five slots instead of twenty-five, a more complex device, and three months of warranty instead of one. It costs more, so the people on it are mostly legit players who won't get the device flagged by raging. Cards, CPUs and motherboards are the same on all three tiers. T1 vs T2 vs T3 helps you pick.

No. Up to four other people hold T3 with you, all on the same device, each with their own serials.

Because it is a different build for a different anti-cheat. Private is made for Vanguard, which this build only runs on Intel, and it gets two months of warranty against one. If your game is on EAC, buy Advanced.

No. Private is made for Intel CPUs in general, not your exact model. It needs an 11th gen or newer.

Normal firmware emulates a device, and on Premium you share that device with other people. With MiTM, your second computer and the MiTM software present a genuine PCIe device to your main PC, and every MiTM user has their own device.

It is a one-time $100, added to your first key at checkout. It keeps the slots for people who are committed, and it pays for setting up your slot and keeping it running. After that you only buy keys. It is an entrance fee, not a deposit, so it isn't refunded.

Buy another key when yours is running out: $180 for one month, $450 for three months or $700 for six.

Twenty to start. MiTM slots are just how many people we take into MiTM, and every MiTM user has their own device, locked to the second PC it is set up on. That's different from a Premium slot, a place on a shared device. More may open depending on demand, and the shop page shows how many are open.

MiTM comes from a developer we work with directly. We set up and deliver every slot ourselves, and the support comes from us too. It runs as a boot loader on your second computer, and from there you make your own config for each game. If you get banned, you make a new config. You don't buy MiTM again.

MiTM is tied to your second computer. If you change it, ask in a ticket and we move it.

Because it has to put out the same high refresh mode your monitor runs, and weaker graphics can't do 1440p at 240Hz.

Open a ticket in our Discord and we work on it with you. We can't tell you in advance which boards work, so check Your Main PC before you buy. We try hard to fix it, and we replace it if we need to. On the very rare occasion it still doesn't work after that, we refund you.

Yes. Our case has buttons that press MAKCU's buttons, so you never have to take it out. You use them for Repair flash in the MAKCU Toolkit, or to switch the serial link speed. On v4, makcu.com says to hold the left one for about a second.

Yes, if it has its own USB receiver. Plug the receiver in where the mouse would go. Bluetooth doesn't work, because a Bluetooth mouse talks to your PC directly and never goes through the device.

MAKCU. It does the same job for a lot less, and FERRUM's one edge is 8000 Hz, which only counts with an 8000 Hz mouse. MAKCU vs FERRUM says why we recommend MAKCU.

Three months on all of our hardware. Everything is tested before it ships. If a card, fuser or aim device does arrive faulty or develops a hardware fault in that time, show us proof and we replace it. Open a ticket in our Discord. It covers the hardware, not software that won't talk to it, but open a ticket for that too and we will help.

• The 10th Gen HDMI has a single HDMI output, is run from the remote, and runs 1440p at 144Hz.
• The 10th Gen DP adds a DisplayPort output alongside HDMI, buttons on the unit, and 1440p at 165Hz. It costs 40 dollars more.
• The 4K Pro is only worth it if you will use the extra refresh rate: 1080p above 240Hz, 1440p at 240Hz or 4K at 120Hz. If your monitor tops out at 1080p 240Hz, 1440p 165Hz or 4K 60Hz, the 10th Gen DP does the job for less than half the price.

Video fusers, and which one goes through it.

It starts on the day your build is delivered.

• Advanced: 1 month
• Premium T1: 1 month
• Premium T2: 1 month
• Premium T3: 3 months
• Private: 2 months
• MiTM: for as long as your key is renewed

A new device if we confirm and announce that your device is blocked or detected (for MiTM, once we confirm it, since every MiTM device is unique), or a replacement if the firmware can't be made to work with your board. A ban on its own isn't a warranty claim.

Advanced, Premium and Private: once we confirm and announce it, everyone on the device is told on the site and by email. In warranty, press Get my new firmware in the email or on your order page, and you flash the new file, about ten minutes. You don't need a ticket for it. A ban on its own isn't a claim. Your warranty starts the day your firmware is delivered, so you're covered from day one. Usually there is no wait, and you wait a week at most for a new device. If a new device isn't possible, we move you to another firmware, for example Premium T1. You can also take a device one tier down straight away (moving back up later costs extra). Out of warranty, 40% of what you paid comes off your next order.

MiTM: once we confirm it, you get a new device, for as long as your key is renewed. If you get banned, you make a new config and carry on.

Advanced, Premium and Private: it's digital, usually about 2 hours after you pay and 24 hours at most. We need your card's DNA ID, its model and an msinfo32 report. You upload them on your order page after you pay.

Stay in the BIOS on the main PC while you read the DNA ID or flash. The card just needs power, so leave the main PC sitting in the BIOS. Never boot into Windows on the main PC with a card that isn't flashed with our firmware yet. If you already did, reinstall Windows on the main PC before launching any games.

MiTM: your key goes on your order page. You send no DNA ID and no msinfo32 report. After you pay, open a ticket in our Discord with your order number and we set your key up with you.

Advanced, Premium and Private: we always fix or replace first. If it won't run on your PC, open a ticket in our Discord and we work on it with you, and replace it if we need to. A refund is only given in one case: the firmware flashes fine but never shows in Device Manager on your main PC, we confirm it's a firmware compatibility fault, and we still can't get it working after fixing or replacing it. Changing your mind doesn't count, because crypto payments are final and your build is made for your card.

MiTM: the same. We fix or replace first, and refund only on the very rare occasion we still can't get it working after that. The entrance fee is never refunded.

Refunds in our terms has the exact wording.

No, it changes what runs on your main PC, but the game still gets every movement it sends. FACEIT, Riot, Activision and PUBG all say they look at how players aim, so aim no person could do can still get caught. Can anti-cheat tell how you aim? explains it.