A DMA card for gaming is a small PCIe card that goes in the PC you play on. It reads that PC's memory and sends it down a USB cable to a second computer, where your software shows you what it found. This guide covers everything in one place: how it works, what to look for when you buy one, how ours compares, and how to set it up.
How a DMA card works
DMA stands for direct memory access. It's a normal PC feature that lets hardware read memory without going through the processor. Graphics cards, network cards and drives all use it every day. A DMA card uses the same feature, but sends what it reads somewhere else.
- It sits in your main PC.
The card goes in a free PCIe slot, like any other card. It only needs one PCIe lane, so even the shortest slot works. - Its firmware decides what it looks like.
The card is built around an FPGA, a chip that can be set up to act like different devices. The firmware you flash on it tells your PC what kind of device it is. What firmware is explains more. - It reads the game's memory.
While you play, the game keeps things like player positions in your main PC's memory. The card reads that memory over PCIe. - It sends the data to your second computer.
A USB-C cable runs from the card's DATA port to your second computer. - Your software turns it into something you can see.
The software runs on the second computer, never on the PC you play on. What DMA software does goes into it.
What is a DMA card? is the short version of this section if you just want the basics.
The parts of a DMA card

- The FPGA chip.
The brain of the card. Its size is the number in the card's name, like 35T, 75T or 100T. - The PCIe connector.
The gold strip that goes into your motherboard. It also powers the card, so there's no cable to plug in. - The DATA port.
A USB-C port that sends memory to your second computer. On most cards it runs through an FT601 chip at USB 3.0 speed. - The JTAG port.
Used to flash firmware. If a card has one built in, you don't need to buy a separate programmer. - The kill switch.
Some cards have a switch on the bracket that cuts the card's power. What the kill switch does.
What to look for in a DMA card
- A 75T or 100T chip.
A bigger chip has more room for firmware. Every build we sell needs a 75T or a 100T, and a 35T doesn't have the room. A 100T costs about the same as a 75T, so there's little reason to buy less. 35T vs 75T vs 100T has the numbers. - USB 3.0 speed.
Most USB cards are rated at around 190 to 220 MB/s. Speed comes from the USB link, the cable and the firmware, not the chip size. What a healthy speed test looks like. - A built-in JTAG port.
It lets you flash the card from your second computer with one cable. - Genuine hardware.
Clone cards and fake listings are common. Fake fusers and clone DMA cards shows how to check. - Firmware for your game and CPU.
This matters more than the card. The card is the same for everyone, and the firmware is what has to suit your anti-cheat and your processor. Which anti-cheat does my game use? - Someone to ask.
A seller who will help you flash, test speeds and fix errors saves you a lot of time.
How our card compares
We only sell one card, the GODLIKE 100T DMA Card, because it runs every build we make.
| 35T card | 75T card | GODLIKE 100T | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Logic cells | 33,280 | 75,520 | 101,440 |
| Runs our firmware | No | Yes | Yes, every build |
| Link to second computer | Depends on the card | Depends on the card | USB-C, USB 3.0 through an FT601, around 200 MB/s at most |
| JTAG for flashing | Depends on the card | Depends on the card | Built in, second USB-C port |
| Kill switch | Depends on the card | Depends on the card | Yes, on the bracket |
| Warranty from us | None | None | 3 months on the hardware |
- Every build runs on it.
Advanced, Premium T1 to T3, Private, AMD VGK and MiTM all run on a 100T, so moving to another build later never means a new card. - A heatsink comes fitted.
There's nothing to add. - Already own a 75T or 100T?
You can keep it and just buy firmware. Can you use our firmware on a card you already own?
Firmware matters more than the card
Every card ships with factory firmware. That firmware isn't made for any game, so you need to flash a build before you use it. Main PC Setup explains why.
Warning. Stay in the BIOS on the main PC while you read the DNA ID or flash. The card just needs power, so leave the main PC sitting in the BIOS. Never boot into Windows on the main PC with a card that isn't flashed with our firmware yet. If you already did, reinstall Windows on the main PC before launching any games.
You can buy firmware with the card or after it arrives. Pick it by your game's anti-cheat first, then your CPU, then how many people you're OK sharing a device with. Which DMA firmware should you buy? compares every build, and What does shared firmware mean? explains the sharing part.
Is it detectable? Everything can and will be detected eventually, no matter what anyone says. Our firmware has had a good track record so far. If a firmware gets detected, we stop sales and alert everyone on it. Is DMA detectable? goes into how anti-cheats look for cards.
What else you need
- A main PC with a free PCIe slot.
x1, x4, x8 or x16, on a board from 2020 or newer. Main PC for DMA helps you pick the slot. - A second computer.
Any spare PC with 4 cores or more, 8GB of memory, a USB 3 port on the back and Windows 10 or 11. Second PC for DMA covers what to buy. - A way to see the second computer.
A spare monitor, a KVM switch or a video fuser. - Software.
We don't sell software. Which DMA software should you get? covers what we suggest. - An aim device, if you want one.
Without one, your software can show you things but can't move your mouse. MAKCU is the one we recommend.
How much does a DMA setup cost? adds it all up.
Setup basics
- Order your card and firmware.
After you order explains each step. - Send your card's details.
Send your card's DNA ID, chip size and model on your order page so we can start building your firmware. Read it with the main PC sitting in the BIOS, not Windows. How to find your DNA ID. - Install the card in your main PC.
How to install a DMA card. - Check your BIOS.
DMA card BIOS settings and Secure Boot, TPM and IOMMU. - Set up your second computer.
Install the FTDI driver and run a speed test. Second PC setup. - Flash your firmware.
It takes about 10 minutes with MewTools, our free tool, on your second computer only. How to flash DMA firmware. - Fix anything that comes up.
DMA card not working? and DMA error messages cover the common ones. If you're still stuck, open a ticket in our Discord.
Common questions
- Does a DMA card work in a laptop?
It's a desktop card. A laptop with an M.2 slot can run every build except MiTM, but we'd rather you used a desktop. Can I use a DMA card with a laptop? - Does it work on AMD?
Yes. Most builds run on AMD and Intel. Vanguard is the exception, and DMA on AMD explains which builds cover it. - Can I use it with only one PC?
No, the card needs a second computer to send its data to. Can you use a DMA card with only one PC? - Will it lower my FPS?
The card doesn't draw frames or run anything on your main PC. Does a DMA card lower your FPS? - How long does firmware take?
It usually takes us about 2 to 24 hours at most to build your firmware, and we will email you when it's done. - What if my card is faulty?
The hardware has a 3-month warranty and is replaced if it's faulty. Warranty and upgrades.
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