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T1 vs T2 vs T3: which firmware tier do you need?

What a higher Premium tier gets you over T1 or Advanced, who should pay for T3, and where Private and MiTM fit.
Post1d ago · developer · 4 reads

Every Premium tier is made for the same anti-cheats as Advanced. Paying more doesn't get you more games. What changes is the device your card pretends to be and who you share it with.

What a device is

A device is the real hardware your firmware makes your card look like to your main PC, like a network or sound card. That includes its IDs and how it behaves. Every firmware and every tier is its own device. Several people share one device, each with a different serial. MiTM is the one exception. Every MiTM user has their own device.

What a higher tier gets you

  • More work on the device.
    Higher tiers get more emulation work and more of our time, so the device your card pretends to be is a closer copy of the real thing.
  • Fewer people on it.
    Slots are people on the same device, each with their own serials. T1 has 50 slots per device, T2 has 25 and T3 has 5. The shop page shows how many are open right now.
  • Legit players on it.
    Higher tiers cost more, so the people on them are mostly legit players who won't get the device flagged by raging. The more people on a device get banned for blatant play, the more likely the device itself gets checked. What shared firmware means explains why.
  • A longer warranty and first in line.
    T3 has 3 months of warranty. T1 and T2 have 1 month. T3 buyers come first when devices change, and they're never moved to a device below their tier unless they ask.

People on one device per tier: 50 on Premium T1 and 25 on T2, both with 1 month warranty, and 5 on T3 with 3 months warranty and first in line when devices change

Our firmware is undetected, but any build can be detected at any time. A higher tier gives you better odds, but a well built device on a lower tier can still last longer than a higher one. Is DMA detectable? explains how people actually get caught.

Do you even need a higher tier?

Most people don't. Every build is tournament ready. If you play pubs or ranked for fun on an EAC game, Advanced or T1 is enough. People on both leave us good reviews.

Pay for more when you have more to lose. A main account you care about, a tournament with money on it, or a rank you've been grinding for.

What you playWhat to get
Fortnite tournaments (FNCS, cash cups)Premium T3
VALORANT, on IntelPrivate, or MiTM if you play EAC games too
Ranked or pubs, a lot of hoursPremium T2 or T1
Casual, on a tight budgetAdvanced
  • Fortnite tournaments: T3.
    Five people on a device, the most work on it and the longest warranty. You're also first when devices change. If you're playing for money, get this one.
  • VALORANT: Private, or MiTM.
    Private is our Vanguard build, and you pay for it once. MiTM covers Vanguard and EAC with your own setup, on a key you renew. Vanguard only runs on Intel, on every build. VALORANT DMA has the details.
  • T2 is the middle.
    Half the people of T1. It suits someone who plays a lot and wants better odds than T1 without paying for T3.

MiTM isn't a tier, but it's one of our firmware options. Every customer gets their own setup instead of sharing a device. So MiTM slots are just how many people we take into MiTM, not several people on one device like a Premium slot. It isn't better than the other builds. It works differently, so which one you pick comes down to your budget. MiTM firmware explains how it works.

Start lower and move up later

You don't lose what you paid if you start on a lower tier. While you're in warranty, 65% of what you paid comes off the build you move to. Warranty and upgrades has the full rules.

Still not sure

Find my firmware asks a few questions and picks a build for you. If you'd rather ask a person, post your CPU, your games and how you play on our forum, or ask in our Discord.

Are we missing something?

Tell us what you came looking for and could not find, or what we got wrong. We will look into it. No account needed.

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